견직물의 자초 염색 시 오배자의 매염 효과The Effect of Gallnut Mordanting on Gromwell Dyed Silk Fabric
- Other Titles
- The Effect of Gallnut Mordanting on Gromwell Dyed Silk Fabric
- Authors
- 박아영; 김인영; 송화순
- Issue Date
- Feb-2009
- Publisher
- 한국의류학회
- Keywords
- Silk; Gallnut; Gromwell; Mordanting; UV-protection efficiency; 견; 오배자; 자초; 매염; 자외선 차단율
- Citation
- 한국의류학회지, v.33, no.2, pp 256 - 265
- Pages
- 10
- Journal Title
- 한국의류학회지
- Volume
- 33
- Number
- 2
- Start Page
- 256
- End Page
- 265
- URI
- https://scholarworks.sookmyung.ac.kr/handle/2020.sw.sookmyung/14069
- ISSN
- 1225-1151
2234-0793
- Abstract
- The purpose of this study is to check color change, color fastness, increase wt., antibiosis, and UVprotection efficiency depending on gallnut concentrations and mordanting methods, when silk fabrics dye with gromwell according to pH. This results will contribute in developing of natural mordant with multi function. The results are as follows. λmax of Gallnut extracts was near 299 nm. When gallnut was used as a mordant, at all pH levels, pre-mordanted fabrics had red color and post-mordanted ones had red-purple color which was closed to natural color of gromwell. Brightness of post-mordanted fabrics was higher than that of pre-mordanted fabrics. In the case of chroma, pre-mordanted fabrics was higher than post-mordanted fabrics. There was no significant difference of color, brightness, and chroma depending on gallnut concentration. As mordanting concentration increased, fabric weight gradually went up and increase weight reached maximum 17~19%. At all pH levels, color fastness improved by premordanting and post-mordanting, and it showed the maximum 4~5 grade of wet fastness and 5 grade of dry cleaning. Antibiosis of silk fabric was improved by gromwell dyeing and synthetic tannin mordanting. Antibiosis of gallnut extracts was excellent. The color fastness and antibiosis were preserved after 10 cycle
dry cleaning. UV-protection efficiency was excellent by dyeing with gromwell and mordanting with gallnut.
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