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테일러드 재킷 봉제방법 비교 연구 - 의복구성 교재를 중심으로 -A Comparative Study on the Sewing Teaching of Tailored Jacket

Other Titles
A Comparative Study on the Sewing Teaching of Tailored Jacket
Authors
신장희손희순
Issue Date
Sep-2009
Publisher
한국의상디자인학회
Keywords
Tailored jacket; Sewing techniques; Comparative study; 테일러드재킷; 봉제방법; 비교 연구; Tailored jacket; Sewing techniques; Comparative study
Citation
한국의상디자인학회지, v.11, no.2, pp 75 - 84
Pages
10
Journal Title
한국의상디자인학회지
Volume
11
Number
2
Start Page
75
End Page
84
URI
https://scholarworks.sookmyung.ac.kr/handle/2020.sw.sookmyung/7505
ISSN
1229-7240
Abstract
The following research analyzed the sewing teaching of the tailored jacket shown in fashion textbooks, which are currently used in universities and educational organizations in the fashion industry. To analyze the sewing teaching of tailored jackets, we analyzed 35 textbooks in the market. Among them we used 14 textbooks which dealt with the patter formation method of tailored jackets, and cutting and sewing methods. First, the stitching direction and the location of attachment varied. The type of sticking tape and its position also differed, emphasizing the need to make an institutionalized education material which is based on the characteristic of the fabric and its silhouette. Second, controlling the ease length of the right side sewing princess line, or information about the shoulder line and sleeve line of the notch as not specifically shown in the textbooks. Furthermore, not many textbooks showed how to pull the lower part of the texture out of sight, nor did they explain why this needed to be done. Third, the lining is usually slightly larger than the outer texture of the clothing, as the lining is usually tugged in the sewing process, and this method makes the clothes more comfortable. The method of sewing the princessline 0.2∼0.3cm outside the outer pattern was the most recommended. The center-back side was usually 2cm in activity measurements, but it turned out that a textbook which required ease treatment on the shoulder line did not do so on the lining material. The textbooks used in this research dealt only with how to manufacture a tailored jacket without full explanation about textures which could influence the manufacturing. The production method and process differed between different textbooks, showing the need to make a institutionalized education material. In a quickly-changing era where there is rapid change in the dressmaking procedure, we need to help students understand the process more easily through a formalized education process.
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생활과학대학 > 의류학과 > 1. Journal Articles

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