저고리 세부구조의 발생과 그 형태변화에 대한 연구 (제2보)-고려시대를 중심으로-

Abstract

Most of the proceeded research of jogories in the Goryeo era are about the total clothing system of the men and women's dress and not many have studied of the developing process of the jeogories specific structures. Therefore, the purpose of this study is to figure out the origin and the alteration of a git, gil, seop and gorem which forms a jeogori after the Unified Shilla era. The range of this study os from 918 to 1392, Goryeo era and 80 pieces 7 portraits and 5 Buddhist relics were for references. This study reached the following conclusions. First, oat git, gil, seop, somae and gorem forms the Goryeo era's jeogori. Second, as the length of the joegori got shorter then the past, the ryeongem also got shorter and changed to an oatgit. Third, as most of the opening side of the jeogori started to fix on the right. Forth, an extra cloth attached on the gil developes a seop that be originates in Unified Shilla when get shoter. Fifth, there were wide and very long sleeves that came all the way down to the hand, narrow sleeves and long sleeves. Sixth, Goryeo era's jeogori had ribbons and cloth buttons to fix the form instead of a belt.