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견직물의 자초 염색 시 합성탄닌의 매염 효과Effect of Tannin Mordanting on Gromwell-dyed Silk Fabric

Other Titles
Effect of Tannin Mordanting on Gromwell-dyed Silk Fabric
Authors
박아영송화순김인영
Issue Date
Dec-2008
Publisher
한국염색가공학회
Keywords
Gromwell; synthetic tannin; mordanting; silk; antibiosis; wet fastness
Citation
한국염색가공학회지, v.20, no.6, pp 51 - 62
Pages
12
Journal Title
한국염색가공학회지
Volume
20
Number
6
Start Page
51
End Page
62
URI
https://scholarworks.sookmyung.ac.kr/handle/2020.sw.sookmyung/14418
ISSN
1229-0033
2234-036X
Abstract
The purpose of this study was to check color change depending on dyeing conditions when silk fabrics was dyed with gromwell and to investigate mordant effect when synthetic tannin was used as a mordant. First, when silk fabrics were dyed with gromwell, the change of color, brightness and chroma were examined by measuring K/S value, a, b value, L value and C value depending on dyeing condition. Second, color, brightness and chroma differences which appeared after mordanting with synthetic tannin were investigated and muti-functional mordanting effect was confirmed with dyeing fastness, antibiosis. As a result of color analysis of gromwell, it was proved that the main pigment of gromwell was shikonin. Color was red purple at pH 3 when silk fabrics were dyed with gromwell. But It became greenish and bluish as temperature rose and time passed by. And it grew reddish and yellowish as concentration level reached higher. The color became purple at pH 5 and purple blue at pH 7. Both at pH 5 and pH 7, it became greenish and yellowish, as temperature went up and time ran by. And it became reddish with concentration increasing. Brightness and chroma decreased with temperature and concentration increasing as well as time passing by. After mordanting with synthetic tannin, the color became less reddish at pH 3 and reddish-yellowish at pH 5 and pH 7. The brightness increased and the chroma decreased. At all pH, the color, the brightness and the chroma became similarly by synthetic tannin mordanting. Dyeing fastness of synthetic tannin mordanted fabric was higher than that of non-mordanted fabric. Especially, wet fastness at pH 3 improved from 1 grade before synthetic tannin mordanting to 3~4 grade after tannin mordanting. Antibiosis was improved by gromwell dyeing and synthetic tannin mordanting.
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생활과학대학 > 의류학과 > 1. Journal Articles

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