Background to the formation of the term Hyangjang (Korean source) and change in cosmetic (Korean source) culture -focusing on change from visual make-up to olfactory make-up-

Abstract

Modernization drastically changed the cosmetic culture of Korea and Japan. A classic case that shows this is the appearance of the term 'Hyangjang (Korean source)'. This paper investigated the background to the formation of the term Hyangjang (Korean source), and reviewed the aspects of cosmetic culture that changed with the emergence of Hyangjangpum (Korean source), or cosmetics containing perfume. The investigation revealed that the term Hyangjang (Korean source) appeared for the first time in Hirano (1899), a literature published in the Meiji period in Japan, and that the new term Hyangjang (Korean source) had been formed against the background of advanced Western synthetic perfume and played an important role in contemporary techniques for the manufacture of cosmetics. The term Hyangjang (Korean source) and cosmetics containing perfume, or Hyangjangpum (Korean source) were then introduced from Japan to Korea. In Korea, the term 'Hyangjang (Korean source)' appeared for the first time in an advertising copy written by Hyeon Hui-un, a pioneer of the Korean modern theater movement during the period of Japanese colonial rule. At that time, cosmetic companies in Korea and Japan were releasing cosmetic products that contained perfume that stimulated a women's desire to purchase them by emphasizing 'fragrance' in their advertising. Existing public tendencies to regard a fragrant smell from a made-up face as vulgar were changing and the public perception of fragrance were also changing. The appearance of Hyangjangpum (Korean source) indicates that the existing cosmetic culture revolving around visual sense changed into a complex cosmetic culture involving olfaction. This change in culture is significant in that it heralded the direction of future development towards cosmetic culture that uses increase combinations of different senses including touch, taste, and hearing. © 2017, The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles.